Explore rugged West Sumatra with Gordon Ramsay

The waves just off the coast of the West Sumatran city of Padang make Gordon Ramsay’s job difficult. Maneuvering the narrow rods of a fishing boat to cast nets while maintaining balance is a much slower process for him than for other fishermen in the area. “My feet don’t even fit on the board,” he said. “I didn’t know I was going to audition for Cirque du Soleil.” But the fishermen are counting on him to secure fishing nets that can stay in place for three to four days, and Ramsay is feeling the pressure. After a valiant attempt to keep his balance while the waves toss his boat, he loses his balance and falls into the Indian Ocean.

Fishing is a major activity in the Indonesian archipelago, which has more than 17,000 islands, the second largest of which is Sumatra. Rugged West Sumatra, where rainforests cling to the steepest volcanic slopes and waterfalls tumble down deep ravines, remains a wild and unexplored land. It is also home to masakan padang, Indonesia’s most popular and influential style of cuisine. In a place where many people don’t have refrigerators, food here is traditionally rich in chilies and spices to preserve meat. Rendang—a meat dish known for its spiciness, long cooking process, and ability to keep for days—originate among the Minangkabau people of West Sumatra.

Over the course of his half-century career, Chef William Wongso has mentored many of the country’s best chefs and is considered the father of Indonesian cuisine, reflecting the region’s rich biodiversity and culture. The restaurateur, author, and television celebrity began his career observing street vendors and has become legendary as a teacher and manager. His managerial skills come in handy for Ramsay, who Wongso challenges to master beef rendang over the weekend. If that wasn’t enough pressure, the judge of both chefs’ rendang dishes will be the governor of West Sumatra. But Ramsay will need to prepare more than just a delicious rendang for the party.

Indonesian cuisine, influenced by spice traders and travelers, is incredibly diverse. In West Sumatra, bika is a popular afternoon teatime snack made from coconut, cooked in a clay pot over cinnamon wood. The fragrant durian, considered by many to be the “king of fruits,” is controversial to some but hugely popular in Indonesia. The creamy flesh of this spiky fruit tastes like custard, but it’s the sweet, garlicky aroma and slight pungency that has led to it being banned from public transport across Southeast Asia. Seafood, such as wild-caught fish and cave prawns, is also a highlight of West Sumatran cuisine, and Ramsay had to choose one for his feast.

“Talk about being pushed to your limits,” Ramsay said. “I may not have been able to perfect the rendang in seven days, but honestly, I’m pretty happy with what I did. He has a lot of experience and that can only make me a much better chef.”