Gordon Ramsay explores inspiration from the pure flavours of Portugal
Before transferring a Portuguese cake from its copper baking tin to its cake tin, Gordon Ramsay takes a deep breath. Dating back to the 1700s, Pão de Ló is a sponge cake that is taken out of the oven early to keep the centre slightly undercooked and gooey. That means a steady hand and careful handling of the cake before it is transferred to the dessert plate. “It’s all liquid in the middle, so it’s very difficult to remove,” he says. “I have to be very careful when I do it. Taking those things out of the oven, believe me, is very difficult.”
As one of the world’s most powerful maritime nations that monopolized the spice trade in the 16th century, Portugal and its cuisine have benefited from ingredients sourced from trade routes. But the roots of Portuguese cuisine also include a focus on the pure flavors of local ingredients. “Portugal is about simplicity and quality of produce,” says Kiko Martins, a renowned Portuguese chef who studied at the Cordon Bleu and honed his skills in Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe. “For generations, we’ve spent time in the family talking about food. At lunch, we talk about what we’re having for dinner. At dinner, we talk about what we’re having for lunch the next day.” In this southwestern corner of the Iberian Peninsula, the windy coastline and rugged landscape have shaped Portugal’s adventurous spirit, which has influenced its people and cuisine. Martins tells Ramsay that on weekends, they’ll be cooking for the mayor of Nazaré, a coastal town with some of the biggest surfable waves on the planet.
“Everything that comes from the ocean is wonderful,” says Martins. “That’s what makes Portugal special.” But when it comes to their cuisine, simplicity is key. Martins’ final piece of advice to Ramsay: “Keep it pure.” With more than 1,100 miles of coastline, Portugal relies heavily on seafood from the Atlantic, and the Portuguese take great care to retain the ocean’s wonderful flavors in their cooking. Delicious but ugly, percebes (also known as gooseneck oysters) thrive in the treacherous waves of the country’s rocky coast, and their special price reflects the risk required to forage for them. Sardines are a vital part of Portuguese culture and economy, a staple of the region’s diet and trade since the Romans found the fish plentiful offshore.
The Colares vineyards, home to some of the oldest vines in Portugal, wind along the sand, influenced by the Atlantic Ocean as they have been for centuries. Iberian black pigs roam the oak forests of the country’s Alentejo region in search of acorns – a key ingredient in the creation of the sweet, marbled porco preto.
The fearless, enthusiastic attitude of the Portuguese appeals to the adventurer in Ramsay. “Portugal is a great eye-opener,” he says. “I really tapped into the daring spirit of the Portuguese, and the understanding that less is more. Keep things simple.”
